The banding here would be where each layer slightly shifts in a certain direction. If you have Z banding which mostly comes out on just one side, it means the layer should be offset/depressed on the opposite side. When the cause of your Z banding is to do with layer heights or temperature, you are more likely to get a banding which is uniform and equal throughout. In this case, layers are wider in all directions compared to another layer. The video above shows a case of a poor Z-carriage bracket that holds the brass nut. If this bracket is badly manufactured, it might not be as square as you need it to be, resulting in Z banding.Īlso, the screws of the brass nut shouldn’t be fully tightened. Printing yourself an Ender 3 Adjustable Z Stepper Mount from Thingiverse can help out a lot. If you have a different printer, you can search around for your specific printer’s stepper mount.Ī flexible coupler also works well to get your alignment in order, to hopefully eliminate the Z banding you have been experiencing. If you are after some high quality flexible couplers, you’ll want to go with the YOTINO 5 Pcs Flexible Couplings 5mm to 8mm. These fit a wide range of 3D printers from Creality CR-10 to Makerbots to Prusa i3s. These are made of aluminum alloy with great craftsmanship and quality to eliminate the stress between your motor and the drive parts. If you choose the incorrect layer heights, relative to your 3D printer’s Z axis, it can cause banding. It is more likely to show up when you are printing with smaller layers since the error is more pronounced and thin layers should result in pretty smooth surfaces. Having some incorrect microstepping values can make it harder to fix this issue, but luckily there is an easy way to get around this. When you compare the movement precision of the motors we use, they move in ‘steps’ and rotations.
Cetus3d z banding full#
These rotations have specific values of how much they move, so a full step or half step moves a certain number of millimeters.
If we want to move at even smaller and more precise values, the stepper motor has to use microstepping. The downside of microstepping though, is the movements aren’t as precise as we want them to be.
It is easy to avoid your extruder having to use microstepping by using either the full or half-step values for your 3D printer, relating to layer heights.
Cetus3d z banding pro#
I did a recent post which has a section about microstepping/layer heights and its ability to give you better quality prints.īasically, with an Ender 3 Pro 3D printer or Ender 3 V2 for example, you have a full step value of 0.04mm. How you use this value is by only printing in layer heights that are divisible by 0.04, so 0.2mm, 0.16mm, 0.12mm and so on. These full step layer height values mean you don’t have to kick into microstepping, which can give you uneven movement throughout the Z axis.
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